THE PROSE VERSION OF THE POEM
Those two weeks when innocence stood at the door
"I can't recall if I remember." -- Alberto Gonzalez
"I've been married four times," Rafael, the bartender told me. "Now I'm back with my first wife."
We were the only ones in Diana's Bar in Tecate, Mexico. I was waiting to catch the afternoon bus back to Tijuana where I had been spending a couple of days, just exploring. I'd intended to visit the Tecate brewing plant, but I was misinformed about tours. They no longer give them. Free beers, though, are handed out in the beer garden.
I chewed on some rich carne asada tacos and nursed another Tecate. The conversation with Rafael grew increasingly confessional. He wasn't really happy in Mexico, he said. He had spent four years in the States, digging up potatoes in Idaho and working a cattle ranch in Wyoming. He never had papers or learned English.
Tecate waits just across the border from California, an easier crossing point than Tijuana. All Mexican border towns clearly are Mexican in character, but I've never warmed to them. Their proximity to the States casts a blurred reflection, as though the richness of Mexican culture and the expansiveness of the U.S. both were denied and barely out of reach.
Since the time I left Illinois for a couple of weeks to spend time with Henry and family, I had never been far from immersion in Spanish. In Los Angeles and Lynwood, signs may indicate "English Spoken" instead of the expected "Se Habla Español."
I took a Greyhound to Tijuana. Crossing the border over land was easier than by air in ways. You get off the bus, fill out the form, walk across the border and reboard the bus on the other side. There was no sign of turmoil or smugglers or caravans. Business as usual, people crossing in both directions.
Downtown Tijuana, Avenida Revolucion, is undeniably a tourist strip, with sombreros and painted donkeys -- Mexican zebras -- chewing on corn husks and waiting for tourists to have their pictures taken. I used Google maps to find a barber shop nearby and got my traditional Latin American haircut. I don't generally shop for souvenirs. I have no need to accumulate more t-shirts and tchotchkes, so I get a haircut instead.
I ate a tlayuda at an Oaxacan restaurant and then took an Uber to the apartment of my Couchsurfing hosts, Ignacio and his girlfriend Adele. He has offered a spare apartment next to his own to Couchsurfers for several years now. We went out for dinner that evening at Caesar's downtown, the upscale restaurant where the Caesar salad was first created.
Ignacio makes a good living driving Uber in San Diego. We discussed our own experiences as Couchsurfing hosts. His only bad experiences were with indifferent backpackers who are looking for a free place to crash and offer little, even in the way of conversation, in return . In my case, the only poor experience was with a Chinese student coming to attend UI and suffering from nervous culture shock. But it all worked out.
In the morning, Ignacio and Adele walked with me through the early street market, looking over the goods for sale and then stopping at Adele's favorite restaurant for some birria and crazy good mole and pollo tacos with peanut sauce and cinnamon coffee.
It wasn't my first time in Tijuana. Years ago, when the boys were still small, Lee and I drove through on our way to take the Copper Canyon train ride across northern Mexico. We also had eaten downtown. The restaurant menu was simple, offering a single order or a double order or a triple order. But of what? An order of what?, I asked the waiter. He pointed to the stuffed goat heads on the wall. Goat meat birria is still prevalent here, prized and hefty chunks of meat swimming in delicious red broth. Topped with onions and cilantro, birria beats ayahuasca any day.
Earlier, back in Los Angeles, Henry and I drove downtown to the Mark Taper Forum to see Dianne Wiest performing as Winnie in Samuel Beckett's "Happy Days." LA has never been renowned as a big legit theater town, HBO's "Barry" to the contrary, and the audience at the Forum was California casual, not the same half tourist/half theater crowd you would get in Manhattan. A fair number in the audience were simply not eager to see a known movie actor like Wiest delivering Beckett's existentialist monologue while buried in sand up up to her waist, and after an intermission that saw a number of patrons exit, buried up to her neck.
Still, it can be watched as a comedy, mostly, and people did respond with generous laughing, at the play and at themselves. I had to watch and reflect on the entire moment as if the bartender, the couchsurfing host, myself, Henry, and the whole messed up world were similarly stuck, a world in which we stuff hungry children in crowded, filthy cages and shrug it off on the way to dinner.
We can't go on like this and yet, we go on.
"I write for myself and strangers. No one who knows me can like it. At least they mostly do not like it that everyone is of a kind of men and women and I see it. I love it and I write it.'
"I want readers so strangers must do it. Mostly no one knowing me can like it that I love it that every one is a kind of men and women, that always I am looking and comparing and classifying of them, always I am seeing their repeating. Always more and more I love repeating, it may be irritating to hear from them but always more and more I love it of them."